Pigmentation Pathways

PIGMENTATION PATHWAYS & MELANIN BEHAVIOUR

(Hormonal, inflammatory, environmental & genetic colour patterns — and why pigmentation feels impossible for many clients)

WHY PIGMENTATION IS SO HARD TO UNDERSTAND

Clients think pigmentation is caused by:

  • sun exposure
  • age
  • tanning
  • heat
  • hormones

This is only a fraction of the truth.

Pigmentation is NOT one problem — it is five overlapping systems:

  1. Genetic melanin behaviour
  2. Inflammation-driven pigment pathways
  3. Hormone-triggered melanocyte activation
  4. Vascular–pigment interaction
  5. Environmental and heat-based triggers

This is why pigmentation:

  • returns quickly
  • behaves differently across the face
  • is worse in some lighting
  • darkens before or during periods
  • comes back after holidays
  • appears suddenly under stress
  • worsens during pregnancy
  • worsens during menopause
  • flares with inflammation or acne
  • is harder to treat in medium–deep skin tones

Pigmentation is a biological survival system, not just a cosmetic issue.

WHY THIS PAGE MATTERS FOR CLIENTS

Every client with pigmentation has felt one of the following:

“I can never get rid of it.”

“It keeps coming back.”

“It moves around my face.”

“It gets darker before it gets lighter.”

“It’s worse on hot days.”

“It’s worse when stressed.”

“It looks different in different lighting.”

“It’s worse with my hormones.”

“Skincare doesn’t fix it.”

This page explains why — and finally gives clients clarity.

Aeternitas is not correcting colour —

it is correcting melanin signalling pathways.

THE FOUR CORE TYPES OF FACIAL PIGMENTATION

Clients often have more than one simultaneously.

  1. Inflammatory Pigment (PIH)

Triggered by acne, damage, picking, inflammation or irritation.

More common in medium–deep skin tones.

  1. Hormonal Pigment (Melasma / Hormonal HPA Axis Activation)

Triggered by hormones, stress, pregnancy, perimenopause, contraception or HRT.

  1. Sun-Induced Pigment (UV/Melanin Shielding Response)

Triggered by UV, heat, oxidative stress and free radicals.

  1. Vascular-Influenced Pigment (Red–Brown Interaction)

Occurs when inflammation and blood vessels intensify colour.

Each of these pathways has its own biology and requires a different treatment strategy.

HOW PIGMENT CELLS (MELANOCYTES) BEHAVE

Melanocytes are highly intelligent cells.

They determine:

  • colour
  • tone
  • evenness
  • clarity
  • depth of pigmentation
  • reactivity to heat and stress

They respond to signals from:

  • hormones
  • inflammation
  • UV light
  • heat
  • stress chemicals
  • immune cells
  • vascular cytokines
  • metabolic activity

This is why pigmentation is unpredictable —

melanocytes respond to EVERYTHING.

HOW AGEING AFFECTS PIGMENTATION

With age:

  • melanocytes become more reactive
  • melanin distribution becomes uneven
  • pigment sits deeper
  • melanocyte numbers decrease but overreact more
  • inflammation becomes chronic
  • hormones destabilise
  • oxygen and circulation weaken
  • cell turnover slows

This is why older skin shows:

  • mottling
  • blotchiness
  • uneven patches
  • dull brown tone
  • flat grey discolouration
  • larger pigment clusters

Ageing pigment is not the same as young pigment —

and it behaves differently under treatment.

HOW ETHNICITY AFFECTS PIGMENTATION

FITZPATRICK I–III (LIGHTER SKIN)

  • prone to sun-induced pigment
  • more freckling
  • more uneven colour
  • post-inflammatory redness leads to brown pigment
  • more visible vascular–pigment interaction

FITZPATRICK IV–VI (MEDIUM–DEEP SKIN)

  • higher PIH risk
  • pigment darkens fast with inflammation
  • more melasma risk
  • more reactive melanocytes
  • slower fading of pigment
  • deeper pigment distribution
  • heat-induced pigment flares

Your Science Hub will explain EXACTLY how to treat each safely.

THE MOST IMPORTANT POINT FOR CLIENTS

Pigmentation is not random.

It is predictable when you understand:

  • the trigger (hormone, heat, stress, UV, inflammation)
  • the pathway (hormonal, inflammatory, vascular)
  • the skin type (genetic melanin behaviour)
  • the environment (climate, heat, stress, lifestyle)
  • the hormonal status (menstruation, menopause, HRT)

Aeternitas is one of the few clinics explaining this in full scientific clarity.

DEEP BIOLOGY OF PIGMENTATION

Melanin pathways, inflammation triggers, hormonal activation, vascular–pigment interaction, heat-based responses and genetic behaviour

HOW MELANIN IS PRODUCED — THE FULL PATHWAY

Your pigmentation begins inside the melanocyte, a highly intelligent cell located at the base of the epidermis.

THE MELANIN PRODUCTION SYSTEM

Every melanocyte contains:

  • melanosomes (pigment factories)
  • tyrosinase (the enzyme that begins pigment formation)
  • MITF (the master gene controlling pigment)
  • dendrites (branches that deliver pigment to surrounding skin cells)

Melanin formation steps:

  1. UV, heat, hormones or inflammation send a “danger” signal
  2. MITF activates
  3. Tyrosinase switches on
  4. Melanin begins forming inside the melanosome
  5. The melanocyte exports melanin into surrounding skin cells
  6. Pigment becomes visible on the surface

This is why treating pigmentation is extremely difficult:

you are dealing with a factory system, not a “spot of colour.”

THE 3 TYPES OF MELANIN — WHY YOUR COLOUR BEHAVES DIFFERENTLY

Humans produce two key pigments:

  1. EUMELANIN (brown)
  • protective
  • absorbs UV
  • stable
  • common in medium–deep skin
  1. PHEOMELANIN (yellow/red)
  • less protective
  • oxidises easily
  • more reactive in lighter skin
  • linked to inflammation + redness
  1. MIXED MELANIN
  • most common in facial pigmentation
  • leads to brown-red or brown-grey patterns
  • influenced by genetics, hormones and inflammation

Aeternitas technology targets different melanin types during treatment — making the results more stable.

THE FIVE MAIN PIGMENT PATHWAYS (ALL CLIENTS FALL INTO THESE)

UV / HEAT-Triggered Pigment Pathway

Driven by:

  • UV light
  • infrared heat
  • sunlight
  • strong studio lighting
  • hot weather
  • hot yoga / saunas

Biology:

  • heat and UV activate melanocyte factories
  • tyrosinase rises
  • melanin production increases
  • pigment becomes deeper and darker

Why it’s hard to control:

  • melanocytes “remember” past heat exposure
  • each heat event can darken existing patches

Inflammation Pathway (PIH)

Triggered by:

  • acne
  • picking
  • irritation
  • eczema
  • friction
  • sensitivity
  • barrier breakdown
  • harsh skincare

Biology:

  • inflammation sends a danger signal
  • immune cells activate melanocytes
  • pigment forms as a “shield”
  • darker in medium–deep skin

PIH is the most common pigmentation in the UK and the most misunderstood.

Hormonal Pathway (Melasma / HPA Axis Activation)

Triggered by:

  • pregnancy
  • contraception
  • progesterone
  • oestrogen fluctuations
  • perimenopause
  • HRT
  • stress hormones (cortisol surge)

Biology:

  • hormones directly activate the MITF gene
  • melanocytes become hypersensitive
  • pigment becomes symmetrical (classic melasma pattern)
  • worsens with heat AND light

This is the hardest pigment type to control — but Aeternitas approaches it scientifically.

Metabolic / Stress Pathway

Triggered by:

  • high cortisol
  • inflammation
  • poor sleep
  • stress-driven immune activation

Biology:

  • stress increases inflammatory messengers
  • these messengers activate melanocytes
  • pigment darkens under emotional pressure

Clients often say:

“My pigmentation gets worse when I’m stressed.”

This is biologically correct.

Vascular–Pigment Interaction Pathway (Red–Brown Mix)

Triggered by:

  • chronic redness
  • inflammation
  • microvascular fragility
  • hormonal flushing
  • rosacea-type behaviour

Biology:

  • redness increases heat
  • heat activates melanocytes
  • inflammation deepens pigment
  • vascular activity makes pigment look darker

This is why:

  • lighter skin sees red–brown patches
  • deeper skin sees brown–purple patches

ETHNICITY AND PIGMENT BIOLOGY

FITZPATRICK I–III

  • more pheomelanin
  • more freckling
  • more UV damage
  • more vascular–pigment interaction
  • slower deep pigment formation
  • faster superficial pigment formation

FITZPATRICK IV–VI

  • more eumelanin
  • deeper melanin reservoirs
  • higher PIH risk
  • more reactive melanocytes
  • darker pigment response to inflammation
  • melasma more intense
  • heat worsens pigment dramatically

The treatment approach MUST change depending on the skin type.

AGEING AND PIGMENT BEHAVIOUR

With age:

  • melanocyte numbers decrease
  • the remaining melanocytes overreact
  • pigment becomes patchy
  • clusters appear
  • sun damage becomes brown-grey
  • oxidative stress darkens pigment
  • skin funnels colour deeper into the dermis
  • cell turnover slows → pigment stays longer

This is why pigmentation becomes harder to treat after 35.

HORMONES AND PIGMENT BIOLOGY

OESTROGEN

  • increases melanocyte sensitivity
  • worsens melasma
  • enhances pigment response to heat

PROGESTERONE

  • darkens pigmentation
  • increases melasma risk
  • flares pigment during luteal phase

ANDROGENS

  • increase inflammation
  • increase oil activity
  • trigger PIH from acne

CORTISOL (STRESS HORMONE)

  • directly activates melanocytes
  • worsens all forms of pigment
  • increases inflammation
  • slows healing → pigment stays longer

This is why pigmentation often worsens during:

  • perimenopause
  • pregnancy
  • stress
  • PCOS
  • PMS
  • menopause
  • medical treatments

HEAT & THE MELANIN–THERMAL RESPONSE

Heat is one of the biggest causes of pigment worsening.

Heat triggers:

  • tyrosinase activation
  • deeper melanin production
  • increased inflammation
  • vasodilation → increased melanin transfer
  • faster melasma reactivation
  • pigment relapse after treatment

Common heat triggers:

  • cooking steam
  • sun exposure
  • hot showers
  • heaters
  • saunas
  • hair dryers
  • exercise
  • LED misuse in heat-sensitive skins

Understanding heat response is ESSENTIAL to controlling melasma and PIH.

WHY PIGMENTATION LOOKS DARKER IN SOME LIGHTING

This confuses clients more than anything.

Looks darker under:

  • bathroom lighting
  • warm/yellow light
  • car mirrors
  • gym lighting
  • late-day sunlight

Looks lighter under:

  • cool white light
  • midday sunlight
  • photography lighting
  • filtered daylight

Why?

Because melanin absorbs and reflects light differently depending on:

  • wavelength
  • angle
  • depth
  • vascular background
  • inflammation level

This is NORMAL behaviour — not worsening pigment.

WHY PIGMENTATION MOVES

Pigment doesn’t actually “move.”

But melanocytes can activate in adjacent locations when:

  • hormones fluctuate
  • inflammation spreads
  • heat triggers a wider response
  • vascular activity increases
  • melanin distribution becomes uneven

Clients are NOT imagining this — pigment patterns often “expand” under biological pressure.

HOW ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY CORRECTS PIGMENTATION AT THE PATHWAY LEVEL

Heat, Hormonal, Inflammatory, Vascular & Deep Melanin Pathway Correction

Pigmentation is not a colour problem.

It is a signalling problem.

Aeternitas devices change the signals that melanocytes receive —

which means pigmentation fades faster, stays lighter longer, and returns less intensely.

Below is the full scientific breakdown for each treatment.

EXFU 11D HIFU

Deep Metabolic & Heat-Pathway Regulation

HIFU does not directly lighten pigment — instead, it regulates the underlying biological systems that drive pigment formation.

HOW HIFU REDUCES FUTURE PIGMENT

  • improves oxygen delivery → reduces melanocyte stress
  • strengthens dermal architecture → reduces vascular–pigment interaction
  • increases collagen → reduces heat retention in tissue
  • improves circulation → reduces grey/brown stagnation
  • reduces chronic inflammation

WHY THIS MATTERS

Pigment forms aggressively when tissue is inflamed, weak or oxygen-poor.

HIFU strengthens the “environment” around the melanocyte, making pigment less likely to form or relapse.

BEST FOR

  • dull brown-grey pigment
  • melasma-prone skin needing long-term support
  • pigment worsened by sagging or poor circulation
  • clients with stress-driven pigment relapse

EXFU 980+ RF MICRONEEDLING

Inflammation-Pathway Correction • Melanin Distribution Reset

RF Microneedling is one of the strongest technologies for pigmentation because it changes the inflammatory and pigment signalling environment.

HOW RF CORRECTS PIGMENT

  • downregulates inflammatory genes → reduces PIH
  • reduces IL-6, IL-8 and TNF → less pigment stimulation
  • increases cell turnover → lifts surface pigment
  • breaks up uneven melanin clusters
  • remodels deeper melanin reservoirs
  • normalises melanocyte behaviour
  • improves dermal architecture → pigment diffusion becomes more even

WHY THIS MATTERS

PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) is the most common pigment type in the UK.

RF Microneedling is the gold-standard for long-term PIH reversal.

BEST FOR

  • PIH from acne
  • pigment from irritation
  • darker skin tones
  • hormonal pigment overlapping with inflammation
  • pigment that keeps returning

SECRET RF

Safe Pigment Correction for Sensitive, Thin or Hormone-Triggered Skin

Secret RF delivers RF deeper and more safely for reactive skin types.

HOW SECRET RF TARGETS PIGMENT

  • remodels dermis for more even melanin distribution
  • strengthens fragile under-eye pigment-prone areas
  • reduces vascular overheating → less pigment response
  • stabilises inflammation in sensitive zones
  • improves superficial and mid-depth pigment

WHY THIS MATTERS

Hormonal pigment often appears in thin, delicate regions (upper cheeks, temples, under-eyes).

Secret RF treats these areas without triggering excessive heat.

BEST FOR

  • melasma
  • thin or fragile skin
  • hormonal pigment flare-ups
  • under-eye pigment blending
  • clients prone to redness + pigment combinations

DERMALUX LED

Hormone & Inflammation Pathway Control — Pigment Stability System

LED is a critical tool for controlling melasma and hormone-driven pigment.

HOW LED AFFECTS PIGMENT PATHWAYS

  • reduces MITF activation (pigment master gene)
  • lowers tyrosinase activity (pigment enzyme)
  • reduces inflammation → prevents PIH
  • cools thermal responses → prevents melasma flare
  • improves healing → pigment fades faster
  • reduces vascular heat that darkens pigment
  • stabilises hormone-triggered melanocyte reactivity

WHY THIS MATTERS

Pigment ALWAYS flares when inflammation is high.

LED keeps pigment pathways quiet and stable.

BEST FOR

  • melasma
  • hormonal pigment
  • heat-triggered pigment
  • sensitive and reactive skin
  • medium–deep skin tones

CRYO COLD HAMMER

Heat-Pathway & Vascular–Pigment Stabilisation

Cryo is essential for pigment-prone clients because it controls HEAT — the #1 pigment trigger.

HOW CRYO PREVENTS PIGMENT DARKENING

  • reduces heat in pigment-prone zones
  • prevents melasma reactivation
  • reduces inflammation that triggers PIH
  • calms vascular flushing
  • reduces redness → lowers pigment visibility
  • stabilises melanocyte sensitivity

WHY THIS MATTERS

Every melasma and PIH client in the world struggles with heat sensitivity.

Cryo is the non-negotiable safety buffer in any pigment-correction protocol.

BEST FOR

  • melasma
  • post-treatment cooling for pigment-prone clients
  • vascular + pigment combination skins
  • hormonal flushing + colour darkening

EXFU 980+ VASCULAR & PIGMENT CORRECTION

Direct Pigment & Vascular Pathway Correction — The Aeternitas Pigmentation Anchor Device

This device is essential for all pigmentation treatments.

HOW 980+ CORRECTS PIGMENT

  • targets vascular-driven pigment (red–brown interaction)
  • collapses overactive vessels that darken pigment
  • reduces heat in pigment patches
  • decreases MITF activation via vascular calming
  • improves oxygenation → pigment becomes lighter
  • reduces inflammatory cytokines feeding pigment
  • clears broken vessels under pigment
  • enhances melasma stability

WHY THIS MATTERS

Pigmentation darkens when vessels are overactive.

980+ corrects BOTH the vessel and the pigment trigger.

BEST FOR

  • red–brown pigment patches
  • melasma + redness
  • hormonal redness darkening pigment
  • PIH with vascular overlap
  • sun-induced pigment
  • stubborn pigment clustering

THE AETERNITAS PIGMENTATION CORRECTION MODEL

5-Step System for Long-Term Stability

  1. Reduce heat (Cryo, LED)
  2. Reduce inflammation (LED, RF)
  3. Correct vascular triggers (980+)
  4. Remodel deeper pigment (RF, Secret RF)
  5. Strengthen tissue + circulation (HIFU, RF)

This model corrects the cause, not just the colour.

WHY AETERNITAS RESULTS LAST LONGER THAN CONVENTIONAL LASERS

Conventional pigment lasers:

  • target ONLY the colour
  • do NOT fix the pathways
  • often cause rebound hyperpigmentation
  • can worsen PIH in medium–deep skin
  • do not address hormones
  • do not address heat
  • do not address vascular triggers
  • do not fix inflammation
  • do not stabilise melanocytes

Aeternitias approach:

✔ fixes inflammation pathways

✔ repairs vascular triggers

✔ calms heat pathways

✔ stabilises hormonal pigment behaviour

✔ improves oxygen and circulation

✔ restructures dermis

✔ normalises melanocyte signalling

✔ prevents pigment returning

This is why Aeternitas is superior in long-term pigment correction.

CLIENT LEARNING — “Why Pigmentation Feels Impossible, Why It Comes Back, and Why It CAN Be Controlled

For most clients, pigmentation feels like a stain or a mark.

But pigment is a behaviour, not a stain.

Melanocytes behave differently depending on:

  • hormones
  • heat
  • inflammation
  • stress
  • circulation
  • oxygen
  • genetics
  • vascular activity
  • UV exposure
  • metabolic changes

This is why pigment reacts quickly to your life — long before it becomes visible.

PIGMENTATION IS NOT JUST “COLOUR” — IT IS BEHAVIOUR

For most clients, pigmentation feels like a stain or a mark.

But pigment is a behaviour, not a stain.

Melanocytes behave differently depending on:

  • hormones
  • heat
  • inflammation
  • stress
  • circulation
  • oxygen
  • genetics
  • vascular activity
  • UV exposure
  • metabolic changes

This is why pigment reacts quickly to your life — long before it becomes visible.

PIGMENTATION RETURNS BECAUSE THE “SIGNAL” RETURNS

Most treatments only target:

  • the surface colour
  • the visible spot
  • the top melanin layer

But pigmentation comes back because:

the melanocyte receives the same trigger again.

Triggers can be:

  • stress
  • heat
  • hormones
  • UV
  • inflammation
  • vascular activity
  • friction
  • illness
  • sleep deprivation
  • medication

Unless the triggering pathway is corrected, pigment WILL return — even if it is fully removed from the surface.

Aeternitas corrects the triggers, not just the colour.

WHY PIGMENTATION GETS WORSE WITH HORMONES

Clients often say:

“My pigment gets darker before my period.”

“It flared when I started HRT.”

“It worsened during pregnancy.”

“It gets darker when I’m stressed.”

Hormones such as oestrogen, progesterone, cortisol, insulin and androgens all activate melanocytes.

This is why melasma and hormonal pigment:

  • darken
  • spread
  • deepen
  • become more symmetrical
  • become more resistant
  • return unless stabilised

Aeternitas strategies stabilise melanocyte activity — which is why results last.

WHY PIGMENTATION GETS WORSE WITH HEAT

Heat is one of the most powerful pigment triggers.

Clients don’t realise how many daily activities create heat:

  • cooking
  • hair dryers
  • saunas
  • hot yoga
  • hot showers
  • exercise
  • heaters
  • warm bedrooms
  • sun through the window
  • intense LED exposure (if misused elsewhere)

Heat activates the pigment enzyme tyrosinase, causing pigment to darken — even without sun.

This is why some clients feel:

“I didn’t go in the sun. How did I get darker?”

Because heat alone can do it.

Cryo + LED + vascular therapy is essential for heat-sensitive clients.

WHY PIGMENT LOOKS DIFFERENT IN EVERY LIGHTING

Clients think this means pigment is “spreading” or “getting worse.”

In reality:

  • warm yellow light makes pigment look darker
  • cool white light makes pigment look lighter
  • sunlight reveals the true depth
  • bathroom lighting intensifies brown-grey
  • car lighting emphasises red–brown

This is normal behaviour.

Melanin reflects light differently depending on:

  • depth
  • oxygenation
  • vascular activity
  • heat
  • skin hydration

Understanding this helps clients feel more in control.

WHY PIGMENT “MOVES” — THE TRUTH

Pigmentation does not physically move.

What happens is:

  • your melanocytes activate in adjacent areas
  • inflammation spreads
  • heat spreads
  • hormonal pigment expands
  • melasma creates symmetrical patterns
  • vascular heat causes deeper activation
  • melanin distribution becomes uneven with age

Clients are not imagining it —

pigment patterns do evolve based on biology.

WHY PIGMENT IS WORSE IN MEDIUM–DEEP SKIN TONES

Medium–deep skin tones naturally have:

  • stronger melanocytes
  • deeper reservoirs of melanin
  • faster pigment response
  • higher PIH risk
  • slower pigment turnover
  • stronger inflammation–pigment connection

This is why pigment looks:

  • darker
  • deeper
  • more stubborn
  • more reactive

But also why results can be much better when pathways are corrected.

WHY PIGMENT IS WORSE AFTER PICKING OR IRRITATION

If a client picks a spot, or skin becomes inflamed:

The immune system immediately activates melanocytes.

This is why:

  • acne leaves marks
  • irritation leaves brown spots
  • scratches leave discolouration
  • friction creates dark patches

This is not scarring —

it is inflammation telling melanocytes to protect the area.

RF + LED is the most effective combination for PIH.

WHY SKINCARE ALONE CANNOT FIX PIGMENTATION

Skincare can help with:

  • surface brightness
  • exfoliation
  • antioxidant protection
  • temporary evenness

But skincare cannot:

  • stop hormonal activation
  • stop vascular triggers
  • control inflammation
  • regulate heat pathways
  • stabilise melanocytes
  • correct deep melanin reservoirs
  • repair pigment genes
  • influence melasma

This is why pigmentation returns quickly with skincare alone — but stabilises with technology.

WHY AETERNITAS TREATMENTS WORK — THE FIRST TIME CLIENTS SEE HOPE

Clients finally feel relief when they understand:

Aeternitas treats the pathways, not the colour.

Aeternitas corrects:

  • inflammation → RF + LED
  • vascular triggers → 980+
  • heat reactivity → Cryo
  • hormonal behaviour → LED, Secret RF
  • deep melanin → RF
  • tissue environment → HIFU

This is why clients say:

“For the first time, my pigment is stable.”

“This is the best my face has looked in years.”

“I didn’t know pigment could be controlled.”

“My skin tone finally looks even.”

This chapter gives clients confidence that you truly understand their condition beyond any other clinic.

The Art of Scientific Aesthetics

Frequently Asked Questions

It is a long established fact that a read will be distracted by the readable content of a page when looking at its layout. The point of using Lorem Ipsum is that it has a more or less.

It is a long established fact that a read will be distracted by the readable content of a page when looking at its layout. The point of using Lorem Ipsum is that it has a more or less.

It is a long established fact that a read will be distracted by the readable content of a page when looking at its layout. The point of using Lorem Ipsum is that it has a more or less.

It is a long established fact that a read will be distracted by the readable content of a page when looking at its layout. The point of using Lorem Ipsum is that it has a more or less.

It is a long established fact that a read will be distracted by the readable content of a page when looking at its layout. The point of using Lorem Ipsum is that it has a more or less.

Scroll to Top